Sonntag, 9. März 2008

..........probably the last words





I was asked to finish this with a last chapter. So here it is: I'm back in Marburg, Germany. Since about one month I'm reorganizing myself setting things up and heading forward to finish my studies. I'm going to write my diploma thesis about NGOs in Development Cooperation.

This probably last entry I like to start with a big thank you to all the people who supported me the last 6 month. Thanks to all Glennies who provided me a shelter, discussions, answers and questions. We had a great time. A big hug to Eva my superhero mate. I don't know how to survive without you in the jungle of curiosity, in the flood of emotions. Thank you for holding my hand in the hospital. Thank you for the great Tai Chi and Kung Fu lessons. Thanks for pushing things forward. Thanks to Oanh and her lovely niece. We had a great time in tran phu. I' m already mising our discussions and the cooking sessions. Special thanks to the guys who visited me Basti, Mareike, Carlo the tomcat and Daniel the Squid. We shared some very special moments. And of course Thanks to all of you who supported me from home. I'm done so far. :-)

Long time no see. After some petty nice days with my companion Daniel. I was kept on the idea to go to Burma. I informed myself, collected articles, I talked to my family and friends and finally I got a visa. All reasons not to go were balanced out. I got some cash and a ticket. With strange feelings I entered the plane. Against my fears it was not as complicated as expected. The securities didn't keep my camera nor my Ibook. I found a nice Guest house where the owner helped me to organize my further travel. Two days in the capitol were enough and I took a bus to Bagan. 18 hours on the most bumpy road I've ever experienced. 18 hours no sleep. Spoiled from the last weeks it was even harder but worth. I shared the rows with probably the most impressive people, monks. Somehow different than the ones I met before. Calm in their behavior, respectable in their gestures and not only friendly more kind of special in their presence. Hard to describe for me. After the horrible bone shaking but remarkable ride we arrived in Bagan which is famous for its more than 4000 temples its, an place with spirit. With horse cart we were brought to a guesthouse where we caught up some sleep. The next days we took again horse carts or bicycles to explore this ancient place. Watching Sunrises and sunsets over the temple scenery followed. We bet on slingshotcompetitions played caneball soccer with kids and ate strange food. The short schedule forced me to leave and I headed for Lake Inle in the Shan state. I can remember that I've read something about Shan state that described it as a mysterious, rebellious and mountainous region and for real so simple as that sound to me, it was like that. We found a guide, a good one. He organized a trekking tour for the next days. Kopar and his best friend Winwin lead us through the mountains, prepared amazing meals and watched our steps. The nights were spend in monasteries among monks. Another experience was the blessing from the monks in the morning. It hurt to leave each of this places. Mentally I felt strong but physically I was weak, sick. I was not longer able to count how often I had to go into the bushes. But thats probably the price for such a trip. Finally Kopar fixed my demolished body with some witchcraft medicine and I could enjoy the trip even more.
To keep it short: I was healed physically but I got a new infection, mentally. I was infected by this awesome and likewise grotesque Burma.
Unfortunately some of the regions I wanted to travel to were not safe anymore because of less friendly rebels and an increased risk of landmines. I had to change plans and besides that I was going to run out of cash and there are nor atm cash machines in whole burma. Slightly disappointed because the lack of time but full of impressions I left. I haven't regret to go there but next time I will need more preparation.

Some people asked me for travel hints because of the political situation in burma.
Questions like:

Isn't it bad to travel there and give your money to an inhuman regime?
In fact if You travel there have to leave there money but as far as it is possible you can decide to whom you gonna give it. You can avoid to support state run travel agencies or guesthouses and restaurants. The best might be to spread your spendings so you can support small local businesses. Inform yourself by asking locals. The tourgroup tourism is unlikely seen by the people because the state profits from the most of the spendings. Most of the people I met are appreciating backpackers.

Isn't it dangerous?
Last year we were witness of the brutality of that regime. People were killed on the streets by the military during demonstrations. There are informations about deported and executed monks. Thousands of people vanished. The truth is hard to find. But fact is that people, mostly monks, started a peaceful protest against high prices of food, failing social services and lack of reliable supply. The government reacted on that with violence against the population.


Burma still has hard times. The Burmese people are poor by law a lot of them are opressed by the governement and some by the non governmental armed groups. More than 30 different ethnic and rebel political organizations, with an estimated 45,000 combatants, ]exist within the country. According to the the informations of landmine monitor several parts of the country is contaminated by landmines and the army and the rebels as well are still laying mines to “defend” their territories.
The only pragmatic answer you can get is be aware and listen to the locals. I was glad to had such a good guide and people around who could give me advices and hints. Nevertheless you will not be the only tourist there you will meet other western people there some of them are more or less aware. Balance it out, anyway its worth to go.
So enough smartassing for now.



Thank You for reading..............................

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